Cartier’s Value
Transcends Time
Cartier’s Value Transcends Time
LOVE. Panthére. Juste un Clou. If you adore Cartier (and who doesn’t?), these are the styles you know and may even have in your jewelry box. Yet more extraordinary than these wearable works of art are the stories behind their creation. Let’s explore Cartier’s most coveted jewelry collections, and why some of these pieces are just as - and in some cases more - relevant and valuable today than they were when they first debuted.
Cartier has always stood for luxury. King Edward VII once named Cartier “jeweller of the kings and the king of jewelers.” The famed jewelry house has been beloved by celebrities, royals, and fashion icons since its inception. Today, Cartier continues to inspire the world with decadence, sophistication, glamour, and innovation. Founded by Louis-Francois Cartier in mid nineteenth century France, Cartier has remained one of the most important and recognizable jewelry houses in the world known for producing extravagant gems with the highest quality and most skillful craftsmanship.
To understand the wonderment that is Cartier, we must first delve into Cartier’s history: Let’s take a peek behind the bejeweled curtain to see how this famous house has evolved over time and how their influence has inspired the world of jewelry design on a global scale.
Cartier’s Beginning
Cartier was founded at 29 Rue Montorgueil in Paris by Louis-Francois Cartier. Before establishing his eponymous store, Louis-Francois worked as an apprentice to leading watchmaker Adolphe Picard. In 1847 Louis was able to purchase Picard’s workshop and embarked on revolutionizing the business. An opportunity for the store arose during the French socialist revolution in 1870. At this time banks were heavily restricted, leaving limited options for aristocrats to access their wealth. Cartier created a way to leverage his business as a potential solution; he would purchase the assets his clients did have access to – their jewelry. In turn, these customers would frequent the shop to sell their family jewels, tiaras, brooches, and all.
After the revolution, people were once again able to spend their money. By then, Cartier had acquired quite an extensive collection to sell, including some of their own creations which were redesigns of the gems that had fallen into their possession, their unique style reflected in each piece. Cartier then became the house from which to buy and order bespoke jewelry. As Louis-Francois developed plans to expand to London and New York, he brought his three sons – Pierre, Jacques, and Louis – on board. Cartier then began designing and selling their own creations alongside their acquired jewelry inventory. In 1902, Pierre acquired the world-famous Fifth Avenue flagship for 2 stands of natural pearls, and the rest is history. Cartier had solidified itself as perhaps the most influential international jewelry design house.
Important Cartier Collections
Throughout Cartier’s illustrious history, they had always produced magnificent jewels fit for a king – or queen, or movie star. Elaborate designs in the early twentieth century were often decadent and chock full of diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and emeralds. Cartier had always catered to the elite, but as the world became more democratic and as the middle class grew, Cartier, again prescient, saw yet another opportunity.
Tutti Frutti
Origins:
- 1901 Pierre Cartier designed what would later become known as the first Tutti Frutti jewelry, a necklace for Queen Alexandra of Great Britain. At the time, the jewelry term had not yet been coined. In fact, it wasn’t until the 1970’s that the term Tutti Frutti was used, so called for its “joyous celebration of color, texture and form.”
- 1911 Jacques was inspired by a trip to India during the coronation of George V as Emperor. While there, Jacques witnessed the Indian techniques of carving sapphires, rubies and emeralds. Excited by his observation, he imported the carved gemstones and incorporated the carving techniques into his jewelry.
- 1920s: Tutti Frutti style had reached peak popularity in the 1920s. The newly discovered fame of the Indian Royal Family’s jewelry collections drove Europe to fall in love with the rich, juicy, vivid colors and whimsical fruit and leaf designs. Meanwhile, the geometry of the Art Deco movement would become highly influenced by the love of exoticism from around the world – including the 1923 excavation of jewels from King Tut’s tomb in Egypt. Pierre Cartier remarked that it would “bring some sweeping changes in fashion jewelry,” and indeed it had.
- 1936 Socialite Daisy Fellows commissioned a Tutti Frutti necklace from Cartier, with many in high society and royals quickly following suit.
How has the Tutti Frutti design changed?
Cartier continues to produce Tutti Frutti jewelry to this day – using the same luxurious array of colors, paying tribute to its original roots. In 2016, Cartier debuted the largest Tutti Frutti necklace ever produced. Baptized the “Rajasthan”, the magnificent necklace features an engraved Colombian emerald, weighing 136.97 carats.
What makes Tutti Frutti iconic?
Cartier has always been a leader of change. Tutti Frutti was the embodiment of societal mobility during the Art Deco period – a progression into modernity with glamour and boldness. And while other famous houses also looked East for inspiration, none had done Tutti Frutti better than Cartier. It is one of the most recognizable Art Deco looks. More than a century later, it is still glamorous and coveted.
While these pieces have moved from the height of fashion, their exquisite design has remained timeless, and the appetite of renowned collector’s demand has only increased for these gem-filled beauties – leading a handful of rare Tutti Frutti bracelets to break world record prices and sell for millions of dollars.
Panthére Collection
Origins:
- 1914: Exoticism was all the rage in the early twentieth century. The world was mesmerized by the colors of the East, and the influence is apparent in Western culture, fashion, and art of the time. Women were instantly attracted to the vivacious colors because it made them feel luxurious and bold – especially during a revolutionary time when women were breaking free from societal norms and traditions. And so, emerged a mascot which embodied the liberation, seduction, and boldness women so desired – the Panther. The feline made its first appearance in a Cartier advertisement featuring a bejeweled woman and a black panther. Shortly after, the feline motif made its first appearance on a wristwatch ala Charles Jacqueau.
- 1917: The full Panther motif appeared on a cigarette case for a friend, and future Cartier creative director, Jeanne Toussaint.
- 1935: Jeanne Toussaint designed the first Panther ring.
- 1948: The first three-dimensional Panther appeared on the Duchess of Windsor’s famous brooch, and later bracelet.
How has the Panthére design changed?
Young Panther cubs began to appear in the 1990s, showcasing a more playful side versus the independence and ferocity of the adult cat. Eventually, the Panthére collection embraced another exotic wildcat – the tiger. As can be expected, the panther will continue to evolve but will likely always be iconic, relevant, and chic. Recently, a new collection of Cartier watches debuted in Paris using Panthére jewelry as inspiration.
What makes Panthére iconic?
The LOVE Bracelet
Origins:
- 1969: The first LOVE bracelet was designed by Aldo Cipullo after his apprenticeship at David Webb. It was inspired by the idea of warriors leaving for battle - ‘locking’ their wives away in the form of chastity belt.
How has the LOVE design changed?
The initial release caused a tremendous sensation. Now, the LOVE design has expanded to include rings, necklaces, and earrings of different gold colors. The theme of the simple bangle held to the wrist by screws on both sides has not changed. Yet today, every iteration imaginable – diamonds and colored stones in the place of screw holes, LOVE bangles interlocked, and pave diamond accents – all enhance the original design.
What makes the LOVE iconic?
The Juste Un Clou
Origins:
- 1971: French for “Just a nail,” the first Juste un Clou was designed also by Aldo Cippulo, who – fresh off the success of his LOVE creation - wanted to continue to change the fashion script and design every day, luxury jewelry for men and women that could be worn day and night.
How has the Juste Un Clou design changed or remained the same?
What makes Juste Un Clou iconic?
Cartier’s Continuous Inspiration: Transcending Trends and Time
How has Cartier maintained its place as one of the world’s most respected jewelry houses? Evolution and innovation. Cartier has always been ahead of the curve, simultaneously anticipating and creating fashion trends, evolving with the changing times. Their revolutionary designs capture the current interests, feelings, and excitement of society, always evoking luxury and relevance. The famed house continues to mix designs, techniques, colors, and cultures – and inspires innovation around the world. Cartier’s ingenious creativity has led to numerous commissions from the most powerful members of society - furthering the allure and demand for their jewelry. Today Cartier continues to inspire collectors across the globe with their timeless designs – both old and new.
CIRCA Can Unlock the Value of Your Important Cartier
Cartier has a long and storied history. Their jewelry is among the most collected in the world. Yet still, there are those who part with their Cartier jewelry. People sell for all different reasons. Inherited jewelry, for example, can be a delightful surprise or an unwelcomed burden. Yesteryear’s styles may not bring you joy today. That Cartier gift from a former lover now sits in the back of your jewelry box, a reminder of a past relationship. Why should you think of CIRCA when you think about selling your Cartier jewelry? Why is CIRCA the most trusted buyer of Cartier? How can CIRCA pay the most for Cartier jewelry over and over again?
Right now, demand is strong for iconic Cartier jewelry collections. Our collectors look for period and modern pieces by Cartier, including LOVE bangles, Panthére necklaces, vintage rings, and diamond Art Deco earrings. There is significant value in these timeless collections, but the demand for Cartier jewelry is not limited to only the collections mentioned in this article.
If you’re thinking of selling your Cartier jewelry, or curious what your Cartier may be worth, make an appointment at one of 20 locations CIRCA has worldwide. The day of your appointment you will meet with one of our jewelry buyers in a private and luxurious setting. We will evaluate your pieces individually, provide written offers for your consideration, and immediate payment upon acceptance of our offer. Schedule a visit to CIRCA, where your Cartier is Worth More.
